Family Reunion brings Caribbean flavors to Virginia

Nearly two years after its debut at Lincoln Center, Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi remains one of New York’s most coveted reservations.

And as a New Yorker with Tatiana long on my culinary wish list, I was thrilled to discover I’d have the chance to sample a few of the restaurant’s dishes during The Family Reunion, a four-day food festival celebrating Black culture and contributions to the culinary world. 

Held annually in mid-August at the Salamander Middleburg in Virginia, about an hour’s drive west of Washington, the ticketed event is helmed by the 34-year-old Onwuachi, whose name alone guarantees a swift sellout.

His career bona fides — including a James Beard Award, top accolades from publications like Food & Wine and stints on “Top Chef” as both contestant and judge — have established him as one of the most influential young chefs in America. 

And the Salamander Middleburg brings its own distinctive merits to the table. The 340-acre, luxury resort is part of Salamander Collection, the hospitality company established by BET co-founder Sheila Johnson. Johnson also serves as the event’s co-host, alongside Onwuachi.

On the second day of the event, I gathered with other guests to have lunch under an open-air tent, with the Salamander Middleburg’s lush lawn serving as a bucolic backdrop. 

In true Family Reunion fashion, the meal was served family style. Dishes arrived at our tables in quick succession, and my fellow diners and I scrambled to make space, taking a few seconds to snap photos before passing each platter down. Despite being a fairly adventurous eater, nothing could have prepared me for the next-level lunch curated by Onwuachi, who showcased flavors that not only paid tribute to his Afro Caribbean roots but drew inspiration from his experiences growing up in New York. 

Among the dishes pulled from the Tatiana playbook was a shawarma roasted chicken paired with turmeric lamb rice — a clear homage to the halal cart offerings that can be found on many a New York street corner. The perfectly tender chicken sat atop a bed of aromatic yellow rice, which was lavishly dotted with hunks of lamb, and was accompanied by white sauce and hot sauce. 

Other crowd-pleasers included a brown stew of branzino with rice and peas, cilantro and onion; a piri piri salad with cucumber, avocado and a tart, gooseberry dressing; and crispy okra, which emerged as an unexpected standout.

Despite okra ranking fairly low on my list of favorite veggies, Onwuachi’s spin on it had me reaching for seconds. It was delicately fried, dressed in a tangy blend of honey and mustard and finished with a bright, citrusy squeeze of lemon.

And Onwuachi had some surprises up his sleeve for us.

The following day, my fellow diners were buzzing about the lunch program, which featured a preview of dishes from a restaurant that was renowned before it had even opened: Dogon, Onwuachi’s latest venture. 

Dogon has since opened at the luxurious Salamander Washington DC, which formerly operated as a Mandarin Oriental and joined the Salamander fold in late 2022. And it’s likely to put the property on the map as a culinary hot spot. 

During the Family Reunion, we tried dishes planned for Dogon, including a curried branzino and mushroom etouffee.

But it was another side dish that stole the show: Onwuachi’s so-called Not Potato Salad. While it did indeed contain potatoes, this dish transcended the typical picnic staple. Instead, the chef’s use of smoked oyster remoulade and pickled celery, crowned with slices of soft-boiled egg, elevated it to a category all its own.

As our plates were cleared, one thing was clear: with The Family Reunion, Onwuachi and Salamander Collection aren’t just part of the culinary conversation. They’re leading it.

Correction: Salamander Hotels & Resorts was rebranded as Salamander Collection and the name has been updated throughout.