There's a lot of buzz around the Four Seasons Yachts, scheduled to launch in the Mediterranean in 2026.
But a catamaran yacht sailing under the Four Seasons flag has been carrying guests for 22 years, the first 21 in the Maldives and, beginning last October, in Palau.
The Four Seasons Explorer is essentially a five-star "live-aboard," the name divers use for boats that go on dayslong excursions, moving through areas with abundant coral reefs and sea life and offering multiple dives daily before returning to land.
Live-aboards can be fairly basic; for most divers, the attractions are under the water, not on the vessel itself.
The Explorer Suite is about twice the size of the Four Seasons Explorer's other accommodations. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
But with the exception of private superyachts, the Explorer is likely the most luxurious live-aboard in the world. It doesn't have all the amenities you'd expect to find in a full-scale Four Seasons resort or upscale cruise ship; there is no fitness center, and its "spa" is one massage table curtained off on the upper deck (the masseur also offers sunrise yoga sessions). The food, served alfresco on the back deck or in an open-plan restaurant/lounge/shop/bar/library, is exceptional.
There are 10 identical staterooms and one Explorer Suite, which, at 485 square feet, is about twice the size of the other accommodations. The staterooms are comfortable and understated; the suite has a panoramic view at the front of the yacht as well as a balcony, a bathtub and its own entrance to the restaurant (private dining in the suite is also an option).
The ship follows a seven-day schedule, but guests can board at any point and stay for any length of time. The yacht is met each morning by two smaller boats -- one for snorkelers, one for divers -- to bring them to appropriate reefs or walls. The smaller boats also ferry guests between Koror (where the airport is) and the yacht; because Palau is so small, the yacht is never more than a 45-minute ride from Koror.
Sunrise in the Rock Islands. The Explorer has a special permit to remain within the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
Unprecedented underwater sights
The yacht has a special permit to remain within the Rock Islands Southern Lagoon, a Unesco World Heritage Site comprising hundreds of small, mostly uninhabited islands, many with interior lagoons or small lakes. The Rock Islands themselves are picturesque, and their reefs are extraordinary, with 385 species of hard corals and 150 of rarer soft corals.
In a time when so many tropical reefs have died or are bleaching, the underwater vistas in Palau are, by contrast, brightly colored and varied, as is the sea life. In one outing, I saw -- in addition to extensive, diverse and healthy corals -- dozens of species of brilliant small and medium-size fish as well as sharks, rays and both hawksbill and green sea turtles.
A traditional Bai house on Koror. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
The Four Seasons touch is apparent both in providing expert guides and taking care of your equipment before and after you emerge from the water; upon return to the boat, we were always greeted with cold, wet washcloths and a glass of juice or cocoa.
Another highlight that's offered is snorkeling in Ongeim'l Tketau, also known as Jellyfish Lake, on Mecherchar Island. The lake contains tens of thousands of stingless jellyfish. I've swum with stingless jellyfish before in Fiji, but these were extraordinary: They're golden, and their structure is tiered like a skirt with petticoats. (There are also the more familiar-looking domed, translucent jellyfish in the lake, which are also stingless.)
A marine biologist gives predinner talks on what's likely to be seen, and following each dinner is "Afterglow": A videographer who alternates following divers and snorkelers edits a video of each day's adventure for guests to view. At the end of the stay, a thumb drive with all the guests' dives is given to them.
An overturned American tank in the jungle on Peleliu Island. Photo Credit: Arnie Weissmann
Landward exploration
A few land excursions are also part of the weeklong experience. Peleliu Island, the southernmost visited, played a major role in World War II's Pacific theater. About 1,250 U.S. Marines died in the Battle of Peleliu, a level of casualties that reached about half the number of U.S. soldiers who perished in the D-Day assault. Before the island was taken by Allied forces, 11,000 Japanese were also killed. A bicycle excursion on the island visits the beach as well as cave networks that the Japanese had dug out and the wrecks of buildings and vehicles from both forces.
The national museum on Koror explores Palau's complex history -- its role as a pawn in international war and colonial history is not a happy one. But evidence of its traditional culture remains on Koror Island, including 52 prehistoric megaliths and a bai house, where tribal chiefs would work out their differences. Ancient cave paintings can be seen on Ulong Island.
One reason that the Explorer was brought from the Maldives to Palau is that Four Seasons is building a resort on Koror that's expected to open in 2026. The move, said Explorer front office manager Ali Shidad, was to raise awareness of Palau ahead of the opening and present an additional option for guests once the resort opens.
But for some, the Explorer is all they'll need. American Bob Underwood has dived all over the world and returned to the yacht's suite with his wife, Leilani, for the second time in two months.
"There's nothing like this," Underwood said. "It's a rare opportunity."