A main focus of the multiyear, $350 million renovation of the Grand Wailea resort on Maui, completed this year, was a revitalization of its food and beverage offerings.
That included a total redesign, from the space to the menu, of its signature, upscale eatery along with the addition of a new restaurant.
During my stay this July at the 844-room Grand Wailea, part of Hilton's Waldorf collection, I checked out both Olivine, the new eatery, and Humuhumunukunukuapua'a, the flagship restaurant named for the very difficult to pronounce state fish of Hawaii. (Staff referred to it simply as Humu Humu, which I was grateful to hear.)
Both reflect some overall food and beverage changes, such as more local ingredients, some grown on property like herbs and vegetables from its gardens and on-site beehives, and a greater focus on ecofriendly sourcing, such as partnerships with sustainable seafood suppliers.
My visits coincided with those perfect Maui evenings, when a slight breeze meets temperatures in the mid-70s. The path from the main property to Humu Humu allows for a stroll through the manicured lawns of the Grand Wailea. The restaurant's setting is exactly what one would look for on a Pacific island, decked out in dark wood and bamboo with thatched-roof, indoor-outdoor pavilions built on a lagoon facing the ocean.
One of the first features guests see at Humu Humu is an aquarium bar top made of glass that was added during the renovation. Fish, all native to Hawaii, swim in a tank with white sand at its base and bright, coral-like adornments that completely encircles the bar. Guests can view the fish as they imbibe, but plenty of children -- and adults -- come over just to search for the different aquatic species.
My table overlooking the lagoon offered stunning views of the sun setting over Wailea Beach and flickering flames from torches lit in the distance.
Humu Humu's menu redesign includes prawns served on hot lava rocks and a 60-ounce porterhouse steak that comes on a heated salt block. The eatery has an oyster sommelier, and signature dishes include its seafood towers, which offer both Dungeness crab legs and king crab. The focus on local ingredients is seen in dishes such as the ahi coconut ceviche paired with Molokai sweet potatoes and Hawaiian swordfish.
The Grand Wailea's new restaurant, Olivine, pairs Hawaiian ingredients with coastal Italian cuisine. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort
A bit of Italy in the Islands
The Grand Wailea's new restaurant, Olivine, pairs Hawaiian ingredients with coastal Italian cuisine.
And while Italian may not be the first thing people think of when going to Hawaii, the name, Olivine, is actually the common mineral component of Hawaiian lava, and the one that makes some beaches in the Islands appear green.
The menu speaks to the commitment to fuse Hawaiian traditions with Italian fare, such as several dishes that use macadamia and pineapple, and a gremolata made with lilikoi (Hawaiian for passion fruit). Many of the featured ingredients are grown or made on the island, such as cheese from Surfing Goat Dairy.
The alfresco space is located next to the resort's adult pool area and offers views of both the ocean and the property's expansive gardens -- the Grand Wailea sits on 40 acres.
Open for lunch and dinner, the vibe is very different by day and night.
On the evening we dined there it was busy with guests enjoying the sunset hour. The menu is great for both families and sophisticated eaters, offering a lengthy selection of pastas and pizza along with signature dishes such as crispy squash blossoms, sourced from Maui's upcountry and drizzled with Grand Wailea's honey made on property, and the cacio e pepe, which features handmade strozzapreti pasta and spiny lobster. The Hawaiian kanpachi crudo is made with fish from the sustainable fishery Blue Ocean Mariculture.
New at both Olivine and Humu Humu are wellness-focused beverage options made in partnership with the property's Kilolani Spa, such as the Kilolani Elixr, with gin, agave syrup, lime juice, coconut water, cucumber and mint. Spirits-free mocktails at Olivine include Ride the Wave, with coconut cream, guava puree, yuzu lemon juice and club soda.